Croatia’s horizons stretch a whole lot further than Dubrovnik and the hands-in-the-air beach-party season. The north-western peninsula of Istriais now regarded as a Tuscan-style sensation stocked with fresh seafood, snuffled truffles and quite brilliant wine. Plenty of which ends up on the tables in Rovinj, the coastal citadel that’s every bit as dramatic as Saint-Malo, with the happenchance street theatre of a Fellini film. But while large hotels rise along the shore, the old town has lacked a smart, small-scale base from which to explore the cobblestoned lanes.

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